A detail lesson for beginners. After the fish paper is on, always write the series-group number at each position, so the connection order lines up. Mark and cut the 0.2 copper strip (it’s quite heavy), punch holes in it: when soldering, twist the wire into the hole first, then add just a touch of solder, then seal with a dab of glue. Connection logic: on the first face join 1 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6… up to 10; on the underside the matching positions are 4–5, 5–6, 6–7, 7–8, 8–9, 9–10; group 10 gets a long strip across to the far side; flip over and do 11–20 the same way. Someone said laying that piece on top is dangerous — it isn’t dangerous right now because the underside isn’t connected yet; once the underside is connected, laying it like that will spark. Join it cluster by cluster: finish this side, flip, then join the matching face — never connect the wrong ones, a wrong connection is a short that blows you up, bro. Settings: AWithZ P60F, gear 587, settled after a lot of trial runs; it tests your technique: copper strip underneath, nickel strip stacked on top, then weld; trim the surplus corners. When you flip, the two cells joined underneath on this side must not be joined again on top, or it shorts; group 20 is effectively the main positive; laying four like this is fine, laying six like that shorts; you must have respect for it — getting blown up is truly terrifying, no joke. Partway through, lift the strip now and then to check the welds are solid — the gear has been tuned countless times but still check. Continuous welding makes the pen hot; 4 pieces on that side, 8 on this side, then 3 more — 11 pieces — off to the evening rush to deliver orders, more when there’s time. Comments: is it Jiashikai 32140 (Jiashikai); copper strip 0.2×40? (0.2×50); can the UF20B stack 0.2 copper (no; with a nickel base it can stack 0.1–0.15 copper); building a 6045? (yes); which gear? (P60F has 999 gears, I use around 600); everyone says AWithZ is junk, is it true; when will you upgrade to laser welding.