#Crafts

Three 18650s plus an e-bike headlight, with a water pipe for the housing. Welded the nickel strip with the H1 — tiny little thing, handles 0.12 strip with zero effort. Switched it on outside at night and the neighbors thought someone had left their car headlights on. Hahahaha. Pic 2 shows the internal wiring, for anyone who wants to copy my homework.

So with this thing, if I just power it from a high-power charger, can it convert current and voltage to work as a universal charger?

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Host, test the Xiaoqiang spot welder and see how it does

Straight short, ‘blew it up, bro’, cotton swab from the bag to wipe his hand — just got cut by the nickel strip again, the welding pen touched the strip and blew twice; the corner of the strip went in and it ‘burst like tomato juice’, this build really wrecks your hands. The 50A copper lug connected and a dab of solder on it; meant to spot-weld it onto the copper plate but found the lug too thick, so back to the old way, screw it, heat-shrink over it, onto the copper plate, then spot-weld to the main positive and negative; when soldering the leads the positive must go to the red positive, get it wrong and it blows up again. Nearly blew it up again just now: welding the main negative, this pen isn’t fully wrapped, it has a gap, the gap touched a positive, bang, the cable was ripped straight off, terrifying, the cable feels unsafely designed — not fully enclosed, and yes enclosing it hurts cooling, but I keep touching other things, clip another strip and it blows; same recipe as before: high-temperature glue, then cutting paper, then a layer of fireproof board on top, this corner is the blackened spot; the short blew right at the pen; this time the main +/− get sealed with 704 silicone first, then a few turns of fiber tape and the sense harness can be soldered. Comments (116): sleeve the pen in nylon braided mesh (noted); my pen is identical and it blew straight through the 50 mm² welding cable, only a few strands left (that bad?); wrap it in polyimide film; no BMS? not on LiFePO4?; solder the main +/− straight onto the copper plate (I prefer screws); safety first (scared stiff); running deliveries in Changsha.

I’m telling you not to try this: this time 0.2 copper sheet plus 0.15 nickel-plated steel strip goes straight on, no nickel base layer; a test weld first, the cell wasn’t sanded, it just has a few old holes from before; the welder is an AWithZ P60F, gear 400, preheat 0.1, interval 1ms; before he even welds, someone says it won’t hold; the current is fierce, you can’t go in square-on or it burns right through the sheet, keep the pens as flat as possible; the pins stuck; it didn’t bond but the nickel strip was pierced clean through, the technique must be wrong, 0.2 copper and nickel both burned with holes and still no bond, or maybe I don’t know how to run the machine; an internal-resistance meter (HRM-10) reads the cell at 3.32V; swap to thinner nickel strip and try, still 0.2 copper strip, gear 450, looks like it might take this time? no, it won’t, forget it, these punched holes crack me up; back to the nickel-plated steel strip, I refuse to believe it; adjusted the preheat, gear 600, whether it’ll punch through the cell I don’t know, getting a bit annoyed after it wouldn’t hold; gear 700: this looks burnt black, too big, too strong; truly can’t be pulled off, cut my hand; now it really won’t come off, the copper stuck to the top, the 0.2 copper strip torn right into a hole; if that’s not enough I’ll add another 100 gears, that’ll definitely do it; so that’s why I tell you not to try 0.2 copper lightly, it just blew two holes, and at gear 700 the current is still too high. 308 comments: if this welder can weld 0.2 copper, every spot-welder seller online can shut down (2); my ¥100-odd unit does 0.1 stacked on 0.1 copper no sweat (2); your skills are questionable; bought a UF20B after your video and it can’t weld 0.1 + 0.1; 0.2 copper + 0.15 nickel-plated won’t take, add 0.1 nickel-plated and you still need flux paste; pins too thin, use 3mm round tips; 700 works, thick pins are best; weld the copper first then the nickel (are you serious?); test the Xiaoqiang; a four-capacitor rig welds it instantly.

The ultimate welding wonder for DIY players? Unboxing the AWithZ HD2 handheld dual-pulse spot welder! Li-ion pack assembly made easy #AWithZSpotWelder #BatteryDIY #Handmade #ToolNerd

Tested the UF20B’s welding ability on livestream: went straight to 0.15 stacked on 0.15 copper strip, very strong (on camera he welds a 0.15 nickel + copper stack onto a cell and shows the welds). This all-aluminum shell looks great overall, with a big color screen; the welding pen has a trigger switch, press it down and click the switch for an easy weld; auto / manual selectable; the welds all look very nice; if you need one, go to his buddy (Xiao Wang) for details, worth recommending. Comments: are the pen cables you send the same ones (I sent two kinds); why is my cable different and running so hot; you must use the 15 mm² pen cable, 8 mm² won’t weld copper.

Don't throw away a dead power-drill battery! Fix it yourself with this 'portable wonder' and save more than half the cost! Small footprint, plenty of power. H1 handheld dual-pulse spot welder! #BatteryRepair #diy #Handmade #WeldingEquipment #PowerTools

Which part is made from scrap?

Turning a years-old iPhone 6 battery that only lasts half an hour into an external 20,000mAh pack. Teardown: open the cover plate, remove the battery connector bracket, pry the battery out with a spudger; drill a small M3 hole in the case, then widen and deburr it so it won’t cut the wire, and route the iPhone 6’s power flex through the hole to the back. First test with 1 L700 taped to + and −: no light the first time because the flex wasn’t clipped in tight; press it down and ‘3, 2, 1, on’, swiping works. Then the big battery: 4 × L700 (5000mAh each) in 4P = 20,000mAh; out comes the AWithZ spot welder, nickel strip joins the positives and likewise the negatives, with fish paper for insulation. The hot-glue gun first dabs the power flex so it can’t come loose, then the back of the phone is covered in hot glue to stick the battery on, both sides filled so it won’t wobble. A soldering iron tins the nickel strip and the wire ends, then solders + and −; it boots to the home screen, Wi-Fi works. Finally a 45℃ thermal switch (actual part marked KSD9700 50℃ 250V10A) is wired to a cooling fan, hot glue holds the switch and fan together, the switch’s + and − are soldered to the battery: once the case goes over 45℃ the fan starts by itself, no physical button. Camera and swiping work — done. Top-liked correction in the comments: charging without a BMS is very dangerous, a 21700 is 4.2V full while an iPhone battery is 4.45V; others worry the big battery will fry the logic board, and ask how to read the charge percentage.

The creator wanted an adjustable supply that works without mains — for the price of one you can hand-build four. The core is an adjustable buck module with a coulomb-counter display; power comes from 12 × 18650 in 3S4P (12.6V) with a 3S 40A BMS. A plastic box is cut for the quick charge port, a square hole for the coulomb-counter display, round holes on both sides, vent holes and a fan slot, a battery gauge and a master switch. The charge input feeds a CC/CV buck-boost module with charge management, output set to 12.7–12.8V; two 40℃ normally-open thermostat switches in parallel control the fan (one stuck on the boost module heatsink), with the fan and gauge negatives on the boost module input. Battery 12.6V goes through the master switch into the boost module set to 36V max, then into the digitally controlled regulator module with thyristor; output leads with clips on the output terminals, the coulomb counter’s ribbon cable into the core board. Power on — charging works, the coulomb counter lights red, a multimeter on the output clips shows the knob sets voltage precisely, up to 33V; it can charge while in use, set voltage and current precisely for load tests, and work as a universal charger for all kinds of batteries.