Diangongbang’s 13-second sales pitch (same script as w113): a handheld rechargeable spot welder that welds nickel strip onto batteries / stainless steel very solidly, welding power and time adjustable, charges from a phone charger; comment: an H1 owner says the H2 upgrades the screen and features, more professional
No need to ask for help or use a soldering iron for battery welding; a handheld rechargeable spot welder that welds nickel strip onto batteries and stainless steel, very solid; welding power and welding time both adjustable; charges from a phone charger, really convenient to use. Screen shows 4ms, T 21℃. Comment: thumbs up for the AWithZ handheld welder, bought the H1 before, this H2 upgrades the screen and features, looks more premium and professional.
Diangong Bang's 13-second H2 pitch: weld cells without asking anyone for help or using a soldering iron, handheld and rechargeable, nickel strip welds solidly onto cells / stainless steel, no welding guide needed, weld time adjustable, charges from a phone charger; the only comment: great for 18650/21700, keep one at home and save on repair bills
Weld cells without asking anyone for help or using a soldering iron; handheld rechargeable spot welder; welds nickel strip onto cells and stainless steel, extra solid; no welding guide needed, weld time is adjustable; charges from a phone charger; very convenient to use. Title: colour screen with adjustable weld mode and strength, handy for repairing and DIY-building packs. 1 comment: the AWithZ handheld spot welder is good, great for 18650 or 21700, keep one at home, fix your own batteries and save on repair bills.
Youzi Teardown (Chinese/English subtitles) builds a 5S Samsung 40T 21700 pack in a Dayi A3 pin-terminal kit with the AWithZ UK1 (nameplate 5V/2.4A in, 8.4V/1380A MAX, adjustable mode / gear / trigger / continuous, the pen only welds when its switch is pressed): cells go in by the holder to locate main − and main +, a small nickel piece joins the main − first, flip over for the main +, gauge red to L+ and black to L−, fit the spring and lid with four screws, test on an A3 tool
Building a 21700 five-series pack with Samsung 40T cells (INR21700-40T); the welder is an AWithZ UK1, 5V (2.4A) input, 8.4V output voltage, 1380A current, Shenzhen Juequi Technology; on power-up it has adjustable mode, gear, trigger and continuous; its pen doesn’t weld the moment it touches, you also have to press a switch — he’ll show that when welding. The kit is a Dayi A3 pin-terminal one, open it, there’s nickel inside, tip it out. How the cells go: the bent part faces this way, this is the main −, so the negative goes on this side; once in, locate the main − and main +, this is positive; join the main − first, the small nickel piece goes here; unlike the previous pen that welds as soon as it touches, this one only starts when the switch is pressed, very convenient; the large nickel goes on; flip it over, weld the main + first, then put it in; this pack is now connected. Gauge: by the way the case sits, the gauge goes at the back, red to L+, black to L−; set it in; pack welded, lid on, there’s a spring that must go in or the button won’t come back up, four screws in; find an A3 tool and try it; have you learned to weld a pack now? 159 comments: where to buy brand-new genuine cells, JD / Taobao / Pinduoduo are full of fakes (3); are 5 × 4.0 reliable, EVE 40P for about ¥100 (2); how much is the welder; tabless vs Sony C6; which welder for copper shims.
17-second hardware-store sales pitch: weld batteries without asking anyone or using a soldering iron — a handheld rechargeable spot welder welds nickel strip onto cells really solidly, power / time adjustable, charges from a phone charger, really handy
Welding batteries — no need to ask anyone for help and no soldering iron; this is a handheld rechargeable spot welder that welds nickel strip onto cells, and the welds are really solid; welding power and welding time are both adjustable; a phone charger is enough to charge it, really handy to use. All comments are ‘share’.
Hardware store 18-second sales clip (same script as w113): weld batteries yourself without a soldering iron; the handheld rechargeable spot welder welds nickel strip onto cells / stainless steel and it holds really well; comments are all ‘shared’
Weld batteries yourself, no asking for help and no soldering iron; this is a handheld rechargeable spot welder that welds nickel strip onto cells and stainless steel, and it holds really well (no voice-over in the second half). Title: clear screen, simple operation, first-rate welds, a must for hardware-tool enthusiasts. All 9 comments are ‘shared’.
Lefeng admits he hasn’t figured the U3 out: the Jiashikai negative is steel, so he tests on a stainless-steel knife — 0.1 nickel strip only needs gear 1.5–1.8 (anything around 1.x is fine), 0.15 nickel strip at gear 2.5 blackens and throws sparks, not good, still not dialed in; cells are on the way and he’ll keep experimenting; comments: ordered from the storefront and it won’t power on, microwave-transformer welder also failed, once you get into it you’ll want a capacitor unit
The comments say I can’t even figure out the AWithZ spot welder; honestly, I haven’t, I’ve tried lots of settings. Because the Jiashikai negative is steel, I test on a stainless-steel knife: for 0.1 nickel strip on this cell the gear only needs to be 1-point-something, 1.5 is enough, and there won’t be a problem; how many gears 0.15 nickel strip needs I don’t know, bumped to 2.5 to try: too high a gear blackens it, it’s already throwing sparks, the result isn’t great, probably still not dialed in; the cells are bought and on the way, I’ll keep experimenting with this AWithZ spot welder. Title: 9.9 gears, 0.1 only needs gear 1.5–1.8; “I haven’t figured it out and you’re still buying it after me, unbelievable”. 207 comments: ordered from your storefront, arrived today and won’t power on (check whether it has charge; if it doesn’t work, return it right away); my microwave-transformer welder failed too (you’re going down the road I went down; the money for a hand-build buys one of these); a Zhongwei Zhixing 30s can’t weld 0.1 nickel-plated stacked on 0.1 copper to a Jiashikai negative (0.1 copper needs a ¥400–500 class machine); fine for beginners to play with but later you’ll definitely want a capacitor unit (yep); get a UF20B; how about the Xiaoqiang.
Zhizhi uses a high-current inductor + an AWithZ U3 (650A/4.2V) as the power source for an ‘ultra-low-voltage coilgun’: clamped in a vise, projectile pushed in, fired by the spot-weld trigger, decent power with visible recoil; the improved version has a thicker coil and only needs a press, no sparks, but a larger gap makes it less efficient; ‘the most powerful coilgun with the least copper’
A high-current inductor, and a sudden thought — could it make a coilgun; clamp it in a vise to test; push in the projectile; the resistance is tiny so it needs a high-current source, which brought the spot welder to mind — mine peaks at 650A with an output of only 4.2V, and if it works this is an ultra-low-voltage coilgun; try it straight away, decent power, you can see the recoil; the improved version has a thicker coil and only needs a press, no sparks, push in the projectile and try, efficiency seems a bit lower because the gap is a bit big; back to the original — truly the most powerful coilgun with the least copper; see you next episode. Comments: go study engineering, hand-build god (3); only 3.7V? the instantaneous high current makes the field that pushes it (creator: spot welders are all 1S or 2S, mine is 1S); a 310V one only manages this much; bubble-tea straw as the rail, thin is the point; could a supercapacitor be the power source.
DIY welder fail diary: a JX-D99 five-MOSFET welder board is a ‘toy’ without enough punch; adding MOSFETs, it blew after a dozen or so welds, a second one still wasn’t enough; finally switched to an AWithZ UF20B (1750A); welding 0.1 nickel strip gives bright, clean welds
The creator ‘teaches you welders’: first a JX-D99 welder board (a toy) + welding pens, hooked to a battery, five MOSFETs underneath; it felt underpowered so he added MOSFETs at the back, and after a dozen or so welds it blew; bought another and it still didn’t feel up to it; then switched to an AWithZ welder, model UF20B, 1750A, 5000W instantaneous (nameplate: 6.0V MAX, 1750A MAX, 10.5kW MAX, 100–240V, Shenzhen Juequi Technology); test-welded two pieces of 0.1-thick nickel strip — welds very good, bright and clean. Comments: ‘so the conclusion is you bought a welder for a few hundred bucks’, ‘you’re teaching us to buy a welder’, ‘talked into buying yet another one’; someone says Xiaoqiang’s can reach 2500+; someone claims a 5-MOSFET board with a 4S 120C battery at gear 75 can weld 0.1 nickel stacked on 0.5 copper (creator: no way).
Lao Gao (RC / FPV) unboxes the AWithZ U3 (11000mAh, a hundred-odd yuan) and walks through a 2S 18650: a soldering iron on an 18650 runs too hot and hurts the cell, so spot-weld to ‘convert’ the terminals to nickel strip and then tin; manual mode, preheat 2ms / interval 2ms, gear 5, 4 spots per cell; 8.06V in series; the positive’s aluminium oxide layer won’t take solder so only nickel strip works; XT30 + balance leads, EVA foam + heat-shrink, balance port 4.048/4.039V, fast-charge with an RC charger
Unboxing the AWithZ U3 spot welder, a common tool for RC car folks: looks like a power bank, two gold-plated sockets for the welding pens, USB output doubles as a power bank, Type-C charging, 11000mAh 3.7V, ‘pioneer of small portable spot welders’; the manual matters (welding method, settings tutorial, weldable nickel / copper thicknesses); the accessory bag has two welding pens, a USB cable and a small pack of nickel strip. Use: DIY 18650/21700 series / parallel. Example, Lao Gao’s radio (Hello Radio V14) 18650 battery: before the welder he used a cell box + XT30 soldered to main + / −, charging through the balance plug was too slow, so parallel-connect an XT30 + XT60-to-XT30 to a charger for fast charge; with a spot welder no cell box is needed. Series / parallel joins on the 18650’s end metal with solder are very hard, and the heat easily damages the cell internals, so get a small spot welder, a hundred-odd yuan, two quick pops. Method: fix the cell, cut strip to length, round off sharp corners (to avoid piercing the heat-shrink); long-press to power on, push the pen pins in firmly; manual mode (press the switch on the pen, pop, welded; auto fires when the two pens touch); preheat 2 milliseconds, interval 2 milliseconds; gear turned down from 65 to 5 is enough; multi-pulse once; one pen presses while the other welds, two spots at gear 5 are already solid, four spots per 18650 (two presses) is very secure; tack the other cell’s positive, + and − joined. One 18650 is 3.7V, multimeter on DC reads 8.06V total, proving the series join. Main + and − on the front also get nickel strip: solder won’t take, the positive is an aluminium plate with a dense oxide layer that won’t tin, the negative can be soldered; once the aluminium is ‘converted’ to nickel it tins easily (comment: just file it and it’ll solder → ‘if it blows up from filing, go find him’). Balance leads to the middle strip between the two cells and to both ends; 2S done; fish paper works for insulation, Lao Gao wraps both ends in EVA foam then shrinks the film; bus reads 8-point-something volts, balance port 4.048/4.039V, normal. FPV pilots like fast charging, so the XT30 goes to an RC plane / car charger. A spot welder is a must for 18650 DIY, don’t go dumbly soldering 18650s with a big iron, too hot and risky. Comments: can you talk slower (no, 1.5× speed); soldering the voltage feedback on would be handier; where does the middle of the three 2S balance wires go; so easy, the iron always shorted before; bought a welder, time to hand-build an EV.
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Improper battery handling can cause fire, explosion, chemical burns and serious injury. Read the full AWithZ Safety & Usage Guidelines before any lithium battery assembly, spot welding or testing, and before using the community.
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